We have slept well because we were exhausted from the previous day. We get up early and go to Connaught Place to take the delhi metro at the Rajiv Chowk stop which is one of the main stops. The blue and yellow line goes to Qutub Minar, after about 13 stations. We bought a tourist card that allows us to make as many trips as we want.
The price of the tickets varies according to the route and they sell tokens that are chips that we have to return when leaving the metro. The metro is clean, with air conditioning. The bags are checked when entering. It is interesting that there is a coach that is only for women and children at the beginning of the train marked in pink.
After getting out of the station we take a rickshaw to Qutub Minar. It is the tallest brick minaret in the world and a leading example of Islamic art, being the oldest Islamic monument in Delhi. The Qutab Minar was built on the ruins of Lal Kot, the red citadel of the ancient city of Dhillika. There are columns originating from the ancient temple on which part of the complex is based. These columns show sculptures of gods whose faces are destroyed.
Located within the Qutb complex, it has a height of 72.5 meters. Its diameter at the base is 14.3 meters while at its highest point is 2.7 meters. The Qutab Minar has been considered a World Heritage Site by Unesco. At present, there is still speculation about the authentic purpose that led to the construction of this monument.
Inspired by the Minaret of Jam in Afghanistan and with the desire to surpass it, Qutbuddin Aibak, the first Muslim ruler of Delhi, initiated the construction of the Qutab Minar in the year 1193 but he could only complete the base. His successor, Iltutmish, added three more floors. The work was completed in 1368 by Firuz Shah Tughlaq.
The evolution of the architectural styles between Aybak and Tughluq are evident in the minaret. The minaret is built with red sandstone, covered with elaborate carvings and verses from the Koran. Before us it looks majestic. The remains seemed interesting to me. Our visit also coincide with an excursion of school children who joined us. I suppose we were more fun than the teacher. Their laughter, their shouts and the joy reflected in their and photos.
We see the iron pillar, one of the most curious metallurgical phenomena in the world. This pillar has a height of 7 meters and an approximate weight of 6 tons. It was built during the Mauryan Empire, and is the only piece of the ancient temple that was erected in the complex that still stands. It is believed that it was used for astrological purposes. It has an inscription in which it is explained that it was built as a tribute to Vishnu and in memory of King Chandragupta II.
It is strange that although about 1,600 years old it does not present any type of corrosion. Now it is surrounded by a fence and can not be touched. Qutub built his mosque around this pillar. It took us about an hour to visit. Another thing about the place that traps us and hypnotizes us is that fantastic reddish brown color that surrounds everything that already puts the icing on the cake the sun falling on the minaret. What also calls my attention is the large number of planes that fly over the place while we are in it.
We take the opportunity to take the last pictures and enjoy the views a little more. We went back to the Qutab Minar Metro Station to go to Humayun's tomb declared World Heritage Site by Unesco. We go down at the Jor Bagh metro station in the yellow line. They are the garden tombs of the second Mughal emperor and some of his nobles. There are circular or orthogonal structures. The environment is a haven of peace.
We go back to take a rickshaw to the stop of the blue line of the subway to go to the Lotus temple or Kalkaji Mandir metro station. It is 3 o'clock in the afternoon and the air conditioning of the metro is appreciated. The Lotus temple is of the Bahai faith and represents a lotus flower in white marble surrounded by a pond of water. The entrance is free but we have to enter barefoot.
Our next destination is the bazaar and the Jama Masjid where we arrived down at the Chadni Chowk metro stop. In this area the environment is indescribable. It's an amalgamation of loose wires everywhere, with dirty and messy chaotic shop stops. There are numerous food stalls.
We ask on the street how to get to the mosque. Finally we took a rickshaw this time without a motor to go to the spice market. I was reluctant to take them for the effort that drivers have to make. To get there we crossed a large part of the bazaar.
The spice market that is a part of Chadni Chowk called Khari Baoli was created by a princess in 1650 and is organized into sections. There are alleyways below the buildings with hollows where people are with the spice sacks of turmeric, cilantro, chili, curry, tea, with lots of bright colors and smell of spices. The cleanliness, obviously, is conspicuous by its absence.
We then went through the sections of clothes, saris, cosmetics, jewelry, hairdressers that are a little more neat, without being anything special because the streets are still unpaved. I took advantage to buy bracelets and tatoos. In shopping we can bargain as much as we want. I like to bargain.
We head to the Chandni Chowk metro station and head to the Rajiv Chowk metro station. Connaught Place is one of the largest financial, commercial and business centers in Delhi. In the past it was the seat of the British and its surroundings are a pride for the city. Its construction began in 1929 and ended in 1933. The inner circle was called Rajiv Chowk and the exterior Indira Chowk. Today, Connaught Place is one of Delhi's most vibrant business districts, and rental or purchase of its offices are among the most expensive in the world.
The area of Connaught Place is recognizable on any map of Delhi, since it is a large circle with radial roads that extend in all directions, like the spokes of a wheel. It is a well-planned area where the first underground market of India is located, the Palika Bazaar municipal market. The outer circle is known as Connaught Circus and has restaurants, shops and hotels. The central circle has offices and small restaurants.
The central park of the Connaught Place has long been a venue for cultural events, and it still is today. We take a walk all around. In addition to all the shops that there are, there are many street vendors. Many of the clothing brands that are concentrated here are imported so their prices are high. As for restaurants and leisure although there are fast food restaurants, there are also many exclusive clubs.
Towards 7 pm we returned to the hotel because we had all day in dance and began to accuse the tiredness. We showered and went down to a chill-out style rooftop restaurant that is near the hotel for dinner. We ate thali with chicken, curry, dal, yogurt. It's not bad and I asked for Afghan chicken with a very soft cream. We ended up playing a guitar and drinking some beers and some masala teas on the roof, with the owners.
We had breakfast at the hotel with chole bhature. Here they accompany it with a spicy curry, but we take honey. The breakfasts at the hotels in Delhi are very peculiar. The western options like toast, juice, cereal and omlet are quite poor. We are given to try everything that we are put in front.
When we finish breakfast we go down to the reception to wait until our driver arrives to pick us up. Today we have a very busy day because yesterday we left several things without seeing because they were closed. Our first stop is the Red Fort of Delhi, which is so called because of the color of the sandstone with which it is built.
Here lived Shah Jahan, who will sound to you because he is the same one who commissioned the Taj Mahal. After burying his beloved, he came to live in Delhi, rather to Shahjahanabad. It was the seventh Mughal city that was built in the area that occupies the current old Delhi.
We regretted right away that we did not pay attention to our driver and limited ourselves to seeing the fort on the outside. Inside it turns out to be disappointing. Perhaps if they had the sources that there are around the enclosure with water it would be something else but as it is, it is not worth the trouble at all.
Especially after having seen places like the ones we've seen so far. The audio guide, which we also take, is in line with all of here. Someone should rethink of updating them because they are pretty bad. Upon leaving, we take the car and go to the Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple. It was inspired and developed by Pramukh Swami Maharaj where more than 3000 volunteers and 7000 artisans participated in its construction.
The materials used for its construction were marble, sandstone and gold leaf. It is the largest temple of the Swaminarayan faith, one of the sects of Vaishnavism. The interior of the Mandir, the main building, is full of golden statues and beautiful carvings of different gods in an impressive work.
The outdoor area, with gardens and fountains, is perfect for walking. One of the zones, that of the playground, emulates an immense lotus flower. It also has a restaurant area at a more than reasonable price. The entrance to the temple is free and closes on Mondays. We cannot go with anything electronic inside (camera either).
Possibly this is one of the visits that have surprised us most to date. We had not heard of this place before coming and it is extremely spectacular that leaves us speechless. The next place we visit is Agrasen ki Baoli. Although there are no historical records, it is believed that it was built by King Agrasen and rebuilt in the 14th century by the Agrawal community.
The concept is the same as that of Chand Baori, but this is something smaller and has 108 steps. As a curiosity, our driver tells us that some scenes of Batman were filmed here. And, finally, we arrived at the famous Lotus Temple, a symbol of the city. It was built between 1980 and 1986 and, contrary to popular belief, it is a Baha'is temple.
This religion defends the integration of all religions. Inside the temples are the sacred scriptures of any faith, but it is not allowed to give sermons, perform rituals or play instruments. The interior of the temple is circular, as established by the Baha'i scriptures. In addition there are no figures or pulpits, also prohibited in the scriptures.
Surprisingly, since its opening it has become one of the most visited monuments in India, surpassing in number of annual visitors to the Taj Mahal itself. Actually the temple is very beautiful, especially seen from the gardens where it truly resembles a Lotus flower. The really incredible must be the aerial view of the place, although I'm afraid we'll stay with the desire.
The last stop is the Qutub Minar, the tallest brick minaret in the world and the oldest Islamic monument in Delhi. Construction began in 1193 but was not completed until the year 1368 by Firuz Shah Tughluq. It is built in red sandstone, carved with various figures and verses from the Koran. Its original function is not known for sure.
It could have been designed as a minaret for the mosque next to which it is located or as a defensive or victory tower. The site leaves us impressed. It was built on a temple and it is still possible to see the carved figures of the gods with their faces erased. The complex in general is spectacular and the tower one of the most impressive things we have seen in Delhi.
At about 4 in the afternoon we feel hungry. Our driver takes us to eat at a place he knows near Connaught Place, where he says they make delicious malai kofta in New Delhi. Being as passionate I am about cooking it was obvious that gastronomy was going to be one of the strong points of the trip.
This is possibly my favorite Indian food dish. It tastes great and the best I have tried. It is a creamy and very soft cream in which vegetarian meatballs (koftas) are submerged. It is absolutely essential to try this dish because it is indescribable how rich it is. When we finish we return to the hotel to take the taxi to the airport.
Something happens when I leave a place. Suddenly, the last moments become important. It is as if all my senses are aware that everything around them is final. As if it began to become relevant what until then had gone unnoticed. And this is how that bus full of passengers stays engraved in my eyes.
The sound of the horn penetrates my ears in a much more conscious way. The smell of incense permeates my nostrils. The taste of that last bite remains suspended in my palate. My hands are determined to touch everything, to take something as intangible as a country turned into something as volatile as touch.
Somehow, I want to keep everything and fill myself with everything around me so as not to lose, to take the part of me that this land has molded and turned into experience, into memory. And the city is staying in my memory. It is tattooed on my skin. And when the plane lands in the place from which days before I left, I know that it is not the person who left who returns.
The one that now arrives is me, with everything I have accumulated along the way, with everything I have lived and learned. I am a bit of where I traveled, even if it's just a sound, a texture, a flavor and that something that stayed with me forever with everything I've accumulated on the road, with everything I've lived and learned.
