Maui is a beautiful island that captivated me from the first moment I stepped on it. Those days were magical and I will never be able to forget everything that this place conveyed to me. I missed that unique and inexplicable feeling that I had been taught so much during these years. Without a doubt it was the best way to end a journey that will forever be in my heart.
I landed at the Kahului airport and took a bus from the public line to our cottage. I arrived at night and it took me a while to find it but finally I found it. The first contact with the island is amazing! We are greeted with a tropical storm that highlights the smell of grass and earth making you feel in a jungle. As much as people talk about the beaches and the sun in Hawaii, the majesty of the mountain and the jungle almost surpass the preciousness of the white sand and crystal clear waters.
I hallucinated when I saw my room in question. It was fully equipped, with a small garden outside and barbecue. When I travel alone I always tend to choose hotels, but this place seemed very special and I did not make a mistake when selecting it. A wonder of houses located next to a white sand beach and innumerable palm trees awaited me on a sunny day.
Day 1
I wake up even with rain and it does not bother me. I am in Hawaii, so nothing can take away the smile. The sensation when going out to the balcony of the room and getting wet in the rain is even more impressive than that of the arrival at the airport. This paradise begins to make me fall in love, let me soak.
Today we dedicate to visit the north and west of the island of Maui. We start from our B&B in Kula and after Kahului we take the road that goes next to the north coast. This road according to the map of the car rental company is not accessible and a 4x4 is recommended.
We take a risk and we think that if we see it too bad, we will return, but in reality we can see that it can be done perfectly with our car, which is not a 4x4. The road is bad in some sections but it can be done perfectly. We reach Kahakuloa bay, where there is a small village with a church and pretty views of the bay.
We continue driving along the Hana road passing through the Twin Falls. They are small waterfalls that prepare us for the most spectacular we will see something later on our way. Then we have the Garden of Eden, a spectacular extensive botanical garden cared for by a family with plants of all kinds, animals and stunning views of the dense jungle.
From the majestic garden we march to the first point where we will get into the water on this route, the Upper Waikani Falls. This is a waterfall with 3 waterfalls practically together that call themselves the 3 bears. We continue on our way to Lahaina, before we stop to snorkel in one of the bays that are completely crystal clear. Then we also passed through Kaanapali and its long beach, with lots of people because it is full of resorts in front but the beach is beautiful and the water is crystal clear. When we get to Lahaina we take a good walk and we stay there to eat.
On a gastronomic level, Maui offers what you would expect from a tourist site. There are a few exclusive restaurants with prohibitive prices and too many affordable sites for the rest of mortals.
For us it was not nothing special, some disappointment, like a mahi mahi that we had at the hotel restaurant. It turned out to be something very similar to frozen fish sticks. But there was some surprises like the green papaya salad and prawns.
Come on, do not think I'm complaining. I just want to make it clear that a place where they grow all kinds of fruits and vegetables, and where you can find fresh fish with ease is not taking advantage of its potential . But come on, as soon as I started to fly, I would ask for a piña colada and it would pass me by. The first day we were able to taste an appetizer (pupu in Hawaiian) of fried prawns battered in grated coconut. The sweet chili sauce is the key to making this dish. It was totally addictive.
Then we continue the path and stop again to go snorkeling in another area. It is the last visit of this day, before returning again to our B&B in Kula. We are in Iao Valley, which although it is very cloudy (this mountain seems to be always) we can appreciate the beautiful needle-shaped mountain and good views of the valley where a river passes. Here we have to pay something to park, but it is not very expensive.
Day 2
Today we dedicate to tour the area of Haleakala volcano. Once in the visitor center we make a trail that takes us to the nearest of the craters seen from above. It is a very recommendable hike, although the return is a little hard. In the afternoon, as there is still a good time, we took advantage of the opportunity to buy some fish for the B&B barbecue.
Then we go to the Ahihi Kinau state park, where we snorkel. In this snorkel I have the opportunity to see a couple of turtles in the water. Then we visit Makena beach (the big beach and the little beach which is accessed by climbing the small mountain on the right side of the big beach).
We continue our tour of the Poipu area, where we eat. In the afternoon we approach the Kealia pond bird reserve, north of Poipu, which although it is not season. It is all very dry, and we see some clueless bird. We finish the trip with an incursion to the Pacific to swim and dive with manta rays, peaceful marine creatures that can only be seen at night.
I took an infinite walk along the coast until I reached a paradisiacal corner. I sat down and looked towards the sea. I let time pass like this and I remember that moment with an indescribable happiness.
At dusk, I walked back and the path along the coast, enlivened with numerous Hawaiian dances. It was a delight.
Day 3
We wake up very early to take the route they call "Road to Hana". Today we leave the B&B that we liked so much to go to Hana on the south road of the island. For this road, in principle, it is not allowed to go with the rental car either, but we get stuck and again without problems. The owner of the B&B already told us that normally there are no problems to make this road with a normal car.
Only when it has rained a lot that it is possible that the road is not in good condition. It is asphalted for the most part although there is a section that is not. It's worth trying, because along this road we enjoy a very interesting volcanic landscape practically alone.
On the mountain road with many curves we have to be drive at about 20 miles per hour for about two hours. It is true that seeing the photos now, it seems a really special place, but at the time, after so much dizziness in the car all I saw was a tiny cove full of people.
Along the way I also had good views of Molokini, a small half-moon shaped island created from an inactive volcanic crater in the middle of the Pacific. When I get to the entrance to Haleakala Park, I visit the 7 sacred pools and then make my way to Waimoku falls. This tour is very nice. We pass through a bamboo forest and another couple of very beautiful waterfalls before reaching Waimoku falls, which are very high.
It reminds us a lot of the Hanakapiai falls that we visited in Kauai. The site is very nice and people take the opportunity to cool off under the waterfall. It starts to rain a bit so we hurry to get back before it gets uglier, but really then it stops right away.
After this walk we continue to Hana, stopping at other places of interest along the way. Once in Hana we take a walk to go to the Red Sand beach, which is a beach of reddish sand. It is not easy to get directions on how to get there. But I had the indications pointed and it did not take us long to run into the road that leads to it.
There is not much time left until sunset with what we have to hurry. We do not want to have to drive in the dark for the last stretch of this road, which is considered the most dangerous as I said before. The day could not end better. The stretch back to the south of the island is beautiful, and even more so when it fits with the sunset. The road is bordered by Haleakala crater on the right and the ocean on the left. The sun comes from the front. We follow it as if it were the star of Bethlehem. Maui, how beautiful you are, today you surprised us.
We stopped at Maui's most famous hippy ice cream shop. I buy a vegan ice cream with organic coconuts. The truth is that we were surprised by the texture of the ice cream and the different flavors. I tried the coconut ice cream (with pieces of toasted and caramelized coconut) and the chocolate with chili. All the flavors, although they have a slight coconut aroma, are delicious.
At the end of the Uakea road we find a hotel. Here the road ends. We park as close as possible to this hotel. Next to the entrance of the hotel there is an empty lot we have to cross and go to the end of the hotel. Here there is a small Japanese cemetery. Very close to here there is a small path that goes around the coast to the beach. On this road you do not have to go down any mountain and it is the best way.
But there is also another one, very close to the cemetery that I mention, that goes up the small mountain until you get to the beach from above. But then to go down is a little steep and dangerous if it has rained. We mistakenly went on the second way and once on the beach when we saw that the other road was much better and did not need to go up and down.
We dined at the restaurant that we liked most in Maui. I'm sorry I do not have pictures. There was a romantic atmosphere and zero lighting. I ordered a cocktail called Pele's Revenge while we looked at the menu. It is a rum flavored with coconut, strawberry puree, soda and a chilli. It sounds weird and it is. I think that next time I will not be so brave when it comes to ordering a cocktail that is spicy. As I mentioned earlier, the papaya and prawns salad with passion fruit was wonderful, as was the mahi mahi and the tuna.
Day 4
Today we travel the Hana Highway, the road that goes from Hana to Kahului in the northeast of the island. The landscape in this area is very lush and there are many interesting stops along the way to see a waterfall or simply see the panorama. But for me the star stop on this stretch without hesitation is in the Wai'anapanapa State park. From the parking lot of this park we take a beautiful trail along the coast, passing through a volcanic landscape with incredible vegetation. Some beaches like the Black sand beach, is very beautiful and also has a small cave in its right side.
Once we passed the city of Kahului we crossed through which is one of the points of interest of the route, Paia town. Paia is one of the quietest cities where you can breathe the surf on every corner. It seems that you come back several years ago to go after her. As soon as we leave the city, the recommended stop is the Ho'okipa Lookout, a point from which we can see the locals surf and make mischief in the waves.
After spending the day touring places along this route, we go to our hotel in Kahului, which faces the sea, next to a small cove. Although here nothing is very idyllic since we are in the middle of the city (although this one is small). For me it was practical to spend the last two nights in the city because the airport is a few minutes away.
Day 5
This day we dedicate to tour the southwestern area of the island. We arrived at the port of departure and left for the Molokini crater, known worldwide for its aquatic fauna. The road to there is spectacular. Our tour that was originally Snorkel has suddenly become a whale watching tour! We found at least 3 whales arriving in Molokini. Some of them simply resting on the surface and others lifting the rear flap. The whole boat sighs at this beauty of nature.
What a pity that by the direction in which the wind arrives this morning we will not be able to jump into the water in Molokini due to the strong waves and the danger. Anyway, we will continue a little further on to an area that our captain knows well and where we can enjoy a lot of wildlife as well. After having a good time in the water and eating a barbecue on the boat it is time to go back to the starting point. We have the best!
It turns out that our friends the whales, as well as the dolphins were keeping their best show for the end. A family of dolphins crosses us and some of them playfully pirouette before the sight of all the tourists of the boat. We keep sighing. We think that nothing can overcome this. However, almost arriving at port we spotted this little whale that starts jumping.
The boat approaches and we enjoy about 2 or 3 more jumps. We thought it was just her, but what a surprise it is when suddenly a giant whale jumps by her side. Only about 100 meters from us. The whole boat is speechless. What else can we ask. Today without a doubt we have had everything. It had been almost a week and we still had not tried the shave ice, a Hawaiian specialty.
The shave ice is a type of ice cream made from powdered ice to which flavored syrups are added. As we did not have the opportunity (or the place in the stomach) to try it on Kauai, we went direct to the best of Maui according to the reviews on tripadvisor and the Lonely Planet guide. And what can I say, this icy delight does not leave anyone indifferent. The first thing that attracts attention is the size.
I was surprised by the care and the time they dedicated to each order, how they were recharging the machines with transparent blocks of ice like glass. For me it was a pleasure to see how each ball is made in front of the client, spraying the ice at that moment and carefully shaping it so that there is a fine and airy texture that allows the syrup to be absorbed everywhere. I was struck by the options to add to the shave ice.
Apart from the syrups made in the same ice cream shop (mostly tropical fruits) you can order a scoop of azuki bean ice cream for the base or mochi in pieces to put on top. Also, next to the counter you have a pot with Li Hing powder, made with pickled plums much more acid than umeboshi, to sprinkle to taste on top of your ice cream. This custom of sprinkling sweets, fruits and sweets with this acid and slightly salty powder is typical of Hawaii and although it does not usually please everyone at first, it hooks an awful lot.
Something we thought a lot about was going to a Luau or not. It is a Hawaiian tradition (very touristy nowadays) in which food, drink and entertainment are offered. On the one hand, it is typical of Hawaii, where you can enjoy music and traditional dances accompanied by buffet and open bar. On the other hand, it is either shabby or expensive (expensive) or in the worst case, tacky and expensive at the same time.
The truth is that we will never know, because we decided to go see a more contemporary show, Ulalena and dinner at a more affordable place instead of going to the Old Lahaina Luau. We liked Ulalena very much, although some parts of the story seemed somewhat abstract since almost everything is told through choreography and if you do not know in depth the history of Hawaii, it is normal to miss a bit.
At the end of the show we went to one of the most popular and affordable places in the area. We take the fresh fish of the day, grilled mahi-mahi accompanied by the usual Hawaiian garnish of two rice balls and one ball pasta salad.
Day 6
My last day arrived in Maui and with it the return to Oahu and what would be my final farewell. Our last breakfast in Maui was at the small bakery that made me fantasize about opening my own business. As I had many hours before the flight, I decided to visit the northeast and spent the morning in a paradisiacal beach in Waihee where there was hardly any people.
For lunch I had a fresh sealed tuna sandwich, a salad and a couple of local beers that helped us say goodbye to the Maui coast. I took my time to say goodbye to the place that I had made so happy. I lay down in the sun and just closed my eyes. I felt lucky for all that I had lived, not only on this trip, but in each of the previous adventures that had brought me there at that time.
Hi!
ReplyDeleteLovely scenery
Greetings from Sweden
/Ingemar
beautiful place!
ReplyDeletebeautiful place... informative write-up and excellent photo..
ReplyDeleteany way thanks for sharing