We had finally decided to buy this trip, which we were so excited about, and which we had always been putting off. Maybe out of fear or because we had been presented with some offer that we couldn't refuse. The ticket was not exactly cheap, as we had made a week's break in June, not to mention that it was already high season in the country.
Even so, we were full of energy. The day began with a very early flight, and without sleeping because we had worked the night shift, from our city. Our flight left at 5:00 pm to Istanbul, but Gokcen airport, where we would be in just 7 hours.
We had already obtained the visa online, because we had read that it was cheaper and it was necessary. And thank goodness we did it that way, because there were long queues, not only to buy the visa, but also to check the passport.
We introduced ourselves: we are three friends, and we normally travel as low-cost backpackers, and this trip was no different. When we arrived in Gokcen, which is on the Asian side of Turkey, we left the airport to catch a bus to take us to the city centre, which is about 35km from Istanbul. After asking, we got on a Havabus bus, where we sat down and guessed that we would be charged once we got on the bus. And that's exactly what happened.
There are cheaper methods that include combining boat and bus, but at 11pm, after such a long day, we preferred to do it this way. The problem was that all the buses left us at Taksim Square, which is a nightlife district, with restaurants and shops. To get to Sultanahmet we decided to take a taxi. In Istanbul it is very typical to use the BiTaksi app, it is a kind of Uber that is great value for money. It was about 5km, and it left us in front of the hotel door.
We had found the hostel through the booking app. The hostel was quite good. The gentleman was very kind. During check-in he offered us several excursions and boats but we preferred to see it on our own, walk around the city and soak up all its corners.
Without further ado, we went up to the room to rest and recharge our energy for what we hoped to find in this wonderful city.
DAY 2 - ISTANBUL
A new day was beginning, and as we had little time and a lot of desire to explore Istanbul, there was no time to waste. So, we got dressed and went up to the roof of the building to have breakfast. Once there, we were already smiling at the beauty of the surroundings.
Not everything was dreamy, because from then on we would discover that Turkish breakfasts are not what you would call succulent. Every day they serve tomato, cucumber, egg, olives but we ate anyway, because we were eager to go out and discover.
We lived very close to Sultanahmet Square, so in less than 3 minutes we were already looking mesmerized in every direction. As it was very early and during Ramadan, there weren't many people on the street.
The main attractions are located quite close to each other. We decided to go first to the wonderful Blue Mosque. To enter, you have to cover your arms, legs and, if you are a woman, your head, and they themselves provide the clothing. Entry is free. If it is impressive from the outside, it is also impressive inside. There is an immensity of detail in every corner you walk through.
After this we continued our route, and we found ourselves in a queue to enter Hagia Sophia. The truth is that the outside is wonderful, beautiful no matter how you look at it, but we expected more from the inside. Even so, it is highly recommended.
We decided to start walking aimlessly along one of the streets with the most shops and restaurants in Istanbul, stopping, looking at crafts, seeing those characteristic lamps or laughing with the tourists and the ice cream jokes.
And so, wandering around and seeing fakes, we arrived at the Suleymaniye Mosque, where there was a great sense of peace and which has nothing to envy of the most popular ones. It is highly recommended to get lost in the streets of Istanbul. There is not one that is wasted.
We visited several more mosques, all free, that we found along the way. Until we reached the Grand Bazaar. It is highly recommended, but so are the surrounding streets. Because if there is one thing that defines the city it is the street vendors.
Regarding the food, it is quite cheap. Both the dishes and the famous kebabs. There are quite a few people who speak perfect Spanish. They are very used to tourists. After walking all day and with a few souvenirs in our backpacks, because here they are very cheap and very pretty, we were getting ready to go to the hostel to sleep, when on returning through Sultanahmet Square, on the grass, there were a multitude of families with their food prepared, so that, as soon as it was time, they could finish the day's fast. It is really spectacular.
DAY 3 - ISTANBUL
The day started in the same way. After breakfast we went for a walk, but this time the destination was different, we would head towards the Bosphorus River to discover its charms.
Before that, we decided to stop by an agency to buy the bus that would take us to our next destination that same night. After asking and haggling and being told that it was practically full, we bought the ticket from Istanbul-Cappadocia. So that night we would spend 11 hours on a bus.
Using Google Maps and after getting lost, and thus discovering pleasant corners, we arrived at the river where all the boats that would take us where we wanted to go are.
We bought the tickets at a machine to Uskudar, and we would cross the Bosphorus River and go to the Asian part of Istanbul.
The boat was pretty good. It has bathrooms and a bar where you can buy something for the journey and it doesn't move too much because it is so big. It also has an open-air upper part and a lower part where you can enjoy sitting comfortably.
We arrived shortly after. We weren't sure which route to take, but we started walking aimlessly until we discovered the famous Leandro Tower in the middle of the sea, right in the middle of the river. Right in front of the tower there were some carpets on some steps from where you could contemplate it and have a tea.
Our next point on the map was the famous Istanbul bridge, now very popular because of Turkish soap operas. We took a BiTaksi, which by now we were very familiar with and which for a few euros would take us wherever we wanted.
The best views of the Bosphorus bridge can be found from Nakkastepe Park. We found it by chance and ended up delighted. From the top it looks impressive and then we began to go down until we reached the main road again to catch the boat back.
The journey is long, let's not kid ourselves. Because at the beginning you walk along the river but then civilisation begins and it's not very entertaining. When we got to the pier we bought the return ticket using the same procedure as on the way there. It seemed to us to be a rather unsafe area, especially because of the children who were hanging around there. It was the only moment that we liked the least in Turkey.
The boat left us in the same place where we had picked it up in the morning. We started walking towards the famous Galata bridge where the famous fishermen are also located. Above it there is a festive atmosphere, both because of the men who fish with company and because of the tricksters who try to trick tourists.
We ate at the end of the bridge where there are a few restaurants, because we knew that from there the steep streets would begin and according to what we had read, they were the most beautiful in Istanbul.
And indeed they were not wrong. The climb is not as complicated as we had read, and that's even though we are not in great physical condition. The path is also full of souvenir shops or hand-painted pictures along the street.
And so we come face to face with the famous Galata Tower. It is very photographable, as all the streets lead to it and you can see it from different perspectives. It was clear that we were not the only ones who wanted to see it, as there was a huge queue and the sun was killing us. You go up via an elevator that takes you directly to the roof.
The views from the tower are spectacular. Although to be honest it is also a bit dizzying. In addition there is very little space for all the people who accumulate on top and if someone decides to come in the opposite direction it is very difficult to do so.
We got off and our plans for the day were over, but there was still plenty of light so we walked around to find the flower and spice market near the Galata Bridge. We weren't too surprised, but we weren't disappointed either. You have to be patient because of the amount of people who gather and push inside.
To have plenty of time and to be relaxed, we headed to pick up our backpacks at the hostel and go to the bus station and buy something to eat for the journey. To get to the station we used the BiTaksi app again, which was quite cheap for three people.
The buses are not punctual and they assign seats to each passenger. However, they were very comfortable, more than we expected. We still had 11 hours ahead of us with some stops to go to the bathroom, stretch our legs or smoke, which luckily we would spend sleeping and save a night in a hotel.
DAY 4 - CAPPADOCIA
The journey was quite comfortable, and after a few hours of sleep and a few stops to eat, go to the bathroom or smoke, we had arrived in Cappadocia. All our hopes were set there. It was a dream come true.
When we got off the bus, still half asleep, we saw in front of us a street deserted of people and cars, all with a stone tone that made everything very peculiar. We had booked a car and a hostel, because it was high season and we didn't like surprises.
So, carrying our backpacks, we looked for the car rental. In order not to like surprises, they served us two plates. When we arrived, no one knew about the existence of the reservation and they didn't give us any solution.
We started walking, asking at every agency we saw, but no one had a car to rent. Until we saw our savior. Finally we got one, which although old, was fine for us, as long as it worked. After explaining how it worked, we assumed because it was a woman who was going to drive it, and recommending that if we weren't strong enough to climb, we turned off the air conditioning, we headed to the hostel.
Driving in Cappadocia is very easy, there isn't much traffic and the roads are well marked. Our hostel was beautiful. It's true that it wasn't one of the famous cave houses, nor was it in the very center, but we loved it anyway. We slept in small cabins and the shared bathroom was outside. We also had breakfast included.
As it was the first day and we were tired from the journey, we decided to take it easy and visit only the closest things. That's why we headed to Uchisar Castle. After entering, you have to climb some stairs to one of the best views of Cappadocia, 360º views crowned by the Turkish flag.
When we decided to go down from the castle we walked around the less crowded surroundings. Next to the castle there is a kind of ravine where the views are just as impressive as those from above. We could see the famous fairy chimneys, those pointed stones, as well as those kinds of windows that are made in the stones, making them habitable.
Along the way we saw many trees with the famous Turkish eyes so characteristic of the area. The day was coming to an end with the castle and the surroundings. So we went to the centre to have dinner and return home, as the next day we had to get up early to see the wonders of Cappadocia.
DAY 5 - CAPPADOCIA
It was dawning very early. We had set the alarm for 6 in the morning, but it had been daylight since 5 or even earlier, so we assumed that the balloons would be out at that time. We quickly got dressed, got in the car and set out to look for them. We weren't sure where the best views were, we were just looking for them with the car. When we decided that they looked close enough, we parked and went looking for them on foot.
We hadn't been able to get a spot in any agency to get in one so we would have to settle for seeing them as close as possible. Little by little we saw them ascending against the light of the sun that was also appearing. They don't last long in the sky or so it seemed to us with the excitement.
When everyone had landed on the ground, we went back to the car to go back to the hostel and get some sleep until breakfast time. Our little cabin was lovely, but we realized that as soon as the sun came out we would practically have to sleep there because of the heat. So, it was a sign to have breakfast and go outside.
First we visited Love Valley, where there are many heart-shaped swings, among others, and which leaves behind wonderful views of the famous penis-shaped stones. You can make a path to walk between them, but with the heat, the little time we had and everything we wanted to see, we ruled it out and continued on our route.
Our next stop was Derinkuyu, a city in Nevsehir. Derinkuyu is the deepest underground city in the world, which once had 20,000 inhabitants, and it was a great idea to go there. Once inside, the path was one way, which was normal because there were stairs, where you often had to crouch and very narrow corridors, which made it a bit claustrophobic.
We left with a very good taste in our mouths. Totally recommended. It was time for lunch, so we stopped at one of the restaurants on the way to do so. After this we returned to the centre, where our next destination was the famous Open Air Museum.
Parking in the centre is quite complicated, but nothing that a little patience can't fix. After finding a space we walked along a fairly straight street that led to the museum.
There is a prefabricated path, quite easy to walk through, where you can go into everything you find. It's fine, it breathes peace. But after having seen the grandeur of Cappadocia we were not too surprised.
Just after leaving the museum we headed towards a small mountain where we could see the sunset, as the time was approaching. Our surprise was when, on the way, we found a large lonely valley covered by fairy chimneys. This left us enchanted and hypnotized.
Our great moment of the day was sitting alone, breathing peace in front of a great sunset that the city offered us. Needless to say, we liked the surroundings of the museum much more than the museum itself. Then we went down the path, had dinner and returned to the hostel.
DAY 6 - CAPPADOCIA
Today we already knew how everything worked and we got up at 5am to once again immerse ourselves in the magic of hot air balloons. We chose a mountain near the centre. We hardly found any parking and it was quite early. There were lots of people sitting along the road. All of them equipped with blankets and even food. At that time there were no balloons, which surprised us. After a while we saw a few vans arrive but they talked amongst themselves and left again. At that moment the people who were close to us started to leave. For us there was not enough wind to stop the balloons from flying, but they were the experts.
So we got up and went to the car to go to the hostel. We rested for a couple of hours and then got up for breakfast. Today was a very light day, we would use it to see what we had left over from the previous days. We packed up the cabin and put our backpacks in the car.
First of all we went to the bus station where we could buy the ticket to go to Pamukkale that same night. With the ticket in hand we started the day. Our first stop was in Pasabag where the most famous fairy chimneys in the country are.
It is incredible to think how the stones have held up over the years and through the elements. The surroundings are truly beautiful. Along the way we made several stops at swings in the middle of nowhere or just because we liked the scenery.
As we drove along, we passed a part where there were many cars parked and of course we stopped to see what it was all about. We found ourselves in front of the twin fairy chimneys of Urgup. They were accompanied by a pleasant wooden walkway and a small market where we bought some souvenirs to take back.
In the afternoon, we returned to the city centre, where we returned the car for a check-up. After being told that everything was fine, we went to have a snack in a café near the bus station. We also took the opportunity to change into something comfortable and warm for the journey.
At 8 pm, when our bus was leaving, we got on and got comfortable, as we still had 10 hours ahead of us.
DAY 7 - PAMUKKALE
We arrived at the bus station in Denizli at approximately 7am. We went to the ground floor, where we had read that the minibuses to the centre of Pamukkale left from. They didn't leave until the bus station was full, but they were quite fast, although we were very crowded, even standing or sitting on the steps of the minibus.
With the help of Google Maps we got to the hostel, where they were already waiting for us. The room was very simple, with a bathroom and breakfast included.
After the owner gave us all the information we needed, we put on our shorts and headed to the famous Pamukkale hot springs. On the way, we bought some sandwiches at a bar to have lunch later in the complex. We lived two blocks from the entrance to the hot springs, so soon we began to see that beautiful white color that blinded us.
We were forced to take off our shoes from the start. The sensation was very strange, although it seemed soft, it stung your feet a lot, there were even places where it was slippery, so we were very careful.
We looked like little kids touching every wall, putting our feet in the puddles and taking photos of everything. We started to climb and things got better and better. The famous pools were beautiful, where the blue color stood out.
We couldn't take it any longer and in one of the last pools, we took off our clothes to swim. The bottom of the pools was a bit disgusting, that mud. At least at first because then we put it on our faces and bodies.
After this, we went up to the top for lunch. We sat on the steps with the views down to the best view we have ever had. There is a restaurant and some tables and benches in this area, but we don't know the price.
Once dry, we changed our clothes and headed to the amphitheater inside the complex. It's a short walk to get there. We found the sound that is projected inside and the construction of it incredible. Also, there was hardly anyone there, unlike the pools, which were a bit overwhelming at times.
When the sun began to set we began the return trip. The descent was a little more complicated, as there were areas that were very slippery and we had to be careful. We saw many people fall.
The good thing was that there were no longer as many people as we had seen in the morning, and if we had been surprised by the views before, now we were speechless, plus there was the added bonus of the sunset.
After leaving the premises, we took a walk around the area, around the small lake nearby and the market. After this we had dinner overlooking the pools and went to the hostel where we could rest.
DAY 8 - ANTALYA
After finishing the day yesterday, we couldn't stop smiling. We got up early and went up to have breakfast. Our time in Pamukkale was over, as we had already fulfilled what we went there to do. So, loading up our backpacks again, we got ready to take the same minibus that we had taken on the way to the town and that would take us to the Denizli bus station to go to our next destination.
Once at the station, we bought the ticket to Antalya. It took just over 3 hours. It dropped us off at the Antalya terminal and from there we had to take another bus to take us to the airport, as we had booked a car, and they would pick us up there to give it to us. The price is very cheap and in just over 10 minutes we were there.
Our rental car was outside the airport, so they came to pick us up and took us to the office. Once we got to our car, which was pretty good for what we had paid for, everything was great. We had already booked a hotel so, not worrying about that, we decided to make the most of the rest of the day, buy some beers (alcohol is quite expensive in Turkey, by the way), and go to see the sea, which we were already missing quite a bit.
We arrived at Lara beach. It is quite long and we didn't know where to stop. It is full of places where you can park your car and go to the small bars behind the beach. When we found a spot we stopped and went to the longed-for sea.
The first impression you get is of glamour, the facilities, the bathrooms, the restaurants but we decided to have lunch in one of them and it wasn't expensive. The beach is very normal: sandy but with crystal-clear water. What is really interesting is the music coming from the nearby bars. A total party on the beach.
We went to the Duden waterfalls, very close to the centre. That is why there were quite a few people walking and admiring them. They are truly hypnotic both at night and during the day.
After that, we sat quietly on the grass to drink beer and toast to everything we had experienced on what was turning out to be this great trip. We weren't sure if you could drink alcohol on the street, so we were kind of hiding.
When it was getting dark we put the address of the hostel into the GPS and went there. Our surprise was that when we went in nobody knew anything about our reservation, or at least they didn't want to pay attention to them and give the room to other people. The problem was that it had already been paid for. What the guy suggested was to send us to another hotel where they would give us a room for ourselves, obviously at no cost.
Very grumpy we went there. Obviously the man at reception wanted to charge the hotel, pretending he didn't know what we were talking about, when the guy from the other hotel had called in front of us.
After imposing himself on us, and having wasted a lot of time, he took us to our room. We don't know what the other hotel was like, but this one was pretty good: three beds, bathroom included and even a balcony.
We showered and went to look for somewhere to have dinner. The streets were deserted and the few shops that were there were closed. When we got to one of the main roads there was more activity. We sat down in a bar, or rather a street food place, where there were a lot of people, or at least more than anywhere else in the city that we had seen.
In Antalya, it was noticeable that people were more open. But we also noticed that no one spoke English. We had dinner and went to rest, because tomorrow we would explore the turquoise coast.
DAY 9 - ANTALYA
We woke up with mixed feelings. On the one hand we were excited because it was time for one of the best parts of the trip: the beach, the famous turquoise coast, which we were so looking forward to enjoying. On the other hand we were a little sad because we knew it was coming to an end.
We decided to get our act together, put on our bikini and look for something to have breakfast. It was very early and the only place we found was in the same area as the dinner. After this, we went to the hostel, gathered our things and got in the car to go to Antalya.
We were calm because the day before we had bought the bus tickets back to Istanbul. It was the most expensive one we bought. Without any more time to waste, we looked on the GPS, turned on the music and got going. About an hour from Antalya was Cirali beach, framed by the mountains.
We loved it. It was made of small stones that didn't bother our feet too much and that made the water beautiful, totally crystal clear. Apart from this, we were practically alone and it was very peaceful. We enjoyed it, we took a few baths, dried ourselves off and continued on.
Soon, we were on a road that was completely parallel to the coast, which was really beautiful. There were small coves of the bluest colour we had ever seen, and of course we stopped on each side.
And so, enjoying the views, we arrived at a beautiful beach in Kas, full of small white stones. The beach had toilets and a small bar where we had lunch. It didn't seem expensive at all, especially considering the views we had at that moment.
Before we knew it, the afternoon had passed. We changed and loaded the car, as we still had about 200 km to return it. And so, we began the return journey. We were very short on time because we wanted to stay longer on the beach.
There was a long queue at the entrance to the town. Even so, we managed to get to the car rental office, return the car, take a taxi and go to the station, but only just. The bus drivers looked at us a little badly, but we were happy. We still had 12 hours ahead of us to calm down.
